Beyond its famous specialties like goat meat and crispy rice, Ninh Binh boasts a lesser-known yet uniquely named dish: ca kho gao (fish stewed with gao fruit). This rustic dish, often misunderstood due to its name, has become a favorite among locals and a must-try for visitors.

The misunderstood name

At first, many assume that the dish involves using a ladle (gao in Vietnamese) to stew fish, similar to cooking in clay pots. However, the name actually refers to the use of gao fruit, a local ingredient found in Ninh Binh and parts of the Mekong Delta.

The gao tree grows along streams and at the foothills of rocky mountains in Ninh Binh. The fruit resembles a rambutan, with a sour and slightly astringent taste.

Depending on the recipe, ripe or green gao can be used. Ripe gao has a mild sourness, while green gao is tart and astringent, similar to figs.

Ingredients and preparation

Nguyen Hong Thu Trang, a local tourism professional, shared her experience with ca kho gao.

For the best flavor, locals often choose fresh ca ro dong (field perch) or snakehead fish. The fish is cleaned, cut into chunks, or cooked whole.

The gao fruit is sliced and soaked in water to prevent discoloration. Pork belly is often added for richness, and the seasoning typically includes fish sauce, caramelized sugar, and pepper.

Before stewing, a layer of ginger, lemongrass, and galangal is placed at the bottom of the pot to infuse the dish with aromatic flavors and prevent burning. The gao fruit is layered on top, allowing its sour and astringent flavors to seep into the fish below.

Cooking in a clay pot over a wood fire for several hours ensures that the fish becomes tender, flavorful, and aromatic.

A winter favorite

The finished dish features a beautiful golden color, firm fish, and a unique blend of flavors. The gao fruit imparts a nutty, tangy taste while neutralizing the fishy smell.

“This dish is best served with hot rice, especially during winter. The sour and slightly astringent taste of the gao fruit complements the tender fish perfectly,” Trang explained.

In addition to stewing fish, gao fruit is also used in sour soups, replacing other souring agents like tamarind or sau (dracontomelon).

For a simple snack, ripe gao fruit dipped in chili salt is a favorite among Ninh Binh’s children and teenagers.