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The current owners of the pho restaurant are Mr. Co Viet Hai (born in 1989) and Ms. Nguyen Ut Linh (born in 1992). Mr. Hai is the fourth generation in his family to carry on the pho-making tradition.

Nestled in Hang Dong Street, Hanoi, the family-run pho shop of Mr. Chieu has been dubbed the city's "most traditional" pho restaurant.

For decades, the shop has refused to serve lime, a staple in many modern pho eateries, relying solely on garlic vinegar to preserve the authentic taste of beef pho.

Preserving a four-generation legacy

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The restaurant uses vinegar that has been homemade by a family acquaintance for many years. The garlic is peeled clean and sliced thinly.

Current owner Co Viet Hai, 34, represents the fourth generation of a family that has been dedicated to the art of pho-making. His great-grandfather, originally from Van Cu, Nam Dinh - a region renowned as the birthplace of pho - began selling the dish in Hanoi in the 1940s.

Starting as a street vendor, Hai’s grandfather, Co Nhu Chieu, gained a following among Old Quarter residents for his delicious, simple bowls of pho. In 1980, he opened the shop on Hang Dong Street, which has since remained the family’s culinary base.

Hai, who initially pursued higher education and a corporate career after studying abroad, eventually returned to Vietnam to take over the business.

“My time working in software felt unfulfilling and poorly paid. With encouragement from my family, I decided to learn the family trade and continue this legacy,” Hai shared.

A "no-lime" philosophy

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Without hiring staff, the family has not expanded the business for nearly 45 years, choosing to sell only at home - a small, narrow house characteristic of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

The shop's staunch refusal to serve lime traces back to Chieu’s philosophy. He believed lime’s acidity disrupted the distinctive flavor of beef pho, making it indistinguishable from chicken pho.

“Many customers are surprised when they don’t find lime on our tables. Some even assume we’re stingy,” Hai laughed. “But this has been our way for decades, as instructed by my grandfather.”

Instead, the restaurant uses garlic vinegar, homemade by a trusted family member, to add a subtle tang to their pho.

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Inside the house, there are only five tables, accommodating just over a dozen customers. When it gets too crowded, the owners have to seat diners in a neighbor's house.

The shop's commitment to tradition extends beyond its no-lime policy. Every aspect of preparation is handled by family members, from sourcing ingredients to cooking and serving.

“Our family never outsources any part of the pho-making process,” Hai explained. “My wife, parents, and I manage everything ourselves, from receiving goods and preparing ingredients to serving customers.”

The broth is simmered exclusively with beef bones and meat, alongside ginger and fish sauce. Spices like star anise or cinnamon are notably absent to keep the flavor clean and robust. This traditional method, passed down over generations, ensures the broth's sweetness comes naturally from the beef.

Traditional techniques in a modern age

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The pho at the restaurant is priced between 45,000 and 80,000 VND per bowl (approximately $1.84–$3.27).
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The broth at the restaurant is praised by diners for its natural sweetness from the bones and meat, a rich flavor from fish sauce, but without being overpowering.

The shop operates out of a small, narrow Old Quarter house that can seat just over a dozen diners. The cooking station, located at the entrance, features steaming pots of broth and a modest setup with cutting boards and trays of beef cuts, including brisket, flank, and shank.

To maintain consistency, the broth is simmered for 8–10 hours over gas, rather than modern electric stoves. “Using gas allows us to control the heat more precisely at each stage of cooking, even though it’s more labor-intensive,” Hai noted.

Hai’s wife, Nguyen Ut Linh, is now the shop’s primary meat slicer, a role that requires precision and speed. “When I first learned the trade, I accidentally cut myself countless times,” Linh shared, pointing to the scars on her hands.

A labor of love and tradition

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The beef here is always freshly sliced - cut to order as customers eat.
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According to Mrs. Xuan Hoa, back when Mr. Chieu was running the business, a bowl of pho was considered a "noble" dish, requiring a flavor that was both delicious and refined. The family’s children and grandchildren have steadfastly preserved the traditional recipe. "This is how we show our responsibility to the family - it’s not just about running a business," Mrs. Hoa shared.

Running a pho shop is no easy task. The family rises before dawn to prepare for the day, with the morning shift helmed by Hai and Linh, while Hai’s parents oversee the evening service.

Initially, some customers were skeptical of the younger generation’s ability to maintain the shop’s high standards. “They’d wait until my parents were cooking before coming in to eat,” Hai recalled.

Despite holding university degrees - Linh’s mother-in-law is a retired university lecturer - Hai and Linh view their work as a tribute to their family. “This is not just about selling food,” Linh said. “It’s about honoring the legacy and responsibility entrusted to us by our ancestors.”

A loyal following

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Mr. Khoi (Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) has been a loyal customer of the pho restaurant for many years. "The Old Quarter has many pho restaurants, each with its own distinct flavor. I like the pho from Mr. Chieu’s family because of its simplicity - the broth is naturally sweet from the bones and meat, the beef is fresh, and it pairs perfectly with garlic vinegar," he shared.

While not as crowded as the family’s second location on Bat Dan Street, the Hang Dong shop maintains a steady stream of loyal patrons.

Regular customer Hoang Khoi praised the shop’s simplicity: “Old Quarter pho shops each have their own style. I appreciate the straightforward, natural sweetness of the broth here, and garlic vinegar pairs perfectly with the fresh beef.”

With prices ranging from 45,000 to 80,000 VND per bowl, the shop continues to attract both locals and visitors seeking an authentic taste of Hanoi’s culinary history.

Linh Trang