In addition to goi nhech (Vietnamese rice paddy eel salad), thit de (goat meat) and oc nui (mountain snails), Kim Son is also known for a rustic yet renowned dish: fermented pork rolls (also called nem chao).

Describing nem chao, culinary experts say Kim Son fermented pork rolls is a traditional dish that blends bold flavors with meticulous craftsmanship.

It is made of pork hock meat, combined with galangal, lemongrass, green mango, sesame, and various aromatic herbs (such as dill leaves, fig leaves, and passionfruit leaves).

Nguyen Quynh, the owner of a restaurant in Kim Son district said that to prepare delicious nem chao, locals have to go to the market early in the morning to select medium-sized pork hock.

It is advisable not to buy large pork hock as the thick skin may result in tough meat, making the nem chao less appealing. For a crunchier texture, people often use the front hock because it has more tendons.

Pork hock is shaved clean, with bone kept intact, and roasted with glutinous rice straw. This straw imparts a distinctive aroma to the dish.

"Roasting pork hock for nem chao can't be done with a blowtorch or burnt in wrapped newspaper like some other grilled dishes, as it affects the dish's quality and flavor."

Glutinous rice straw is the best for roasting, but it's not always available for use. Therefore, sometimes people use bagasse and charcoal instead, depending on time, conditions and people’s taste.

She stressed that when smoking pork hog, chefs need to pay attention to ensure stable fire and even heat distribution, so that pork skin becomes yellow and aromatic, with a chewy crispiness, without burning the meat. 

Once roasted, the pork hock is shaved clean to reveal a beautiful golden-brown color. After that, it is then deboned.

Besides pork hock, the ingredients are also meticulously selected. For galangal, chiefs need to choose medium-aged roots (neither too old nor too young), freshly dug from the earth, which ensures fragrance and juiciness.

After cleaning, galangal is pounded manually, and the juice is used to marinate the meat. The remaining pulp can be squeezed dry and mixed with the salad to enhance its aroma.

In Kim Son, local people often marinate pork hock with galangal juice and a special seasoning, made from the leaves of the plant known as man tuoi (Eupatorium Fortunei Turez). These leaves have a distinctive aroma and are easy to consume.

After the marinade, pork hock is cooked by steaming or roasting on pan. The latter is more favored, because the meat can retain natural sweetness and aroma without absorbing water, she explained.

Quynh noted that pork hock can be pan-roasted using man tuoi leaves or alternatives like lemongrass, lime leaves, or guava leaves. These ingredients are laid at the bottom with the meat placed on top, and pan-roasted until the meat turns a deep golden color and is fragrant, and then removed and let to cool down.

The pork is then sliced thinly, a step requiring dexterity to ensure evenly cut pieces that adhere to the skin, making the dish both delicious and visually appealing.

To balance flavors, the pork hock is mixed with sour ingredients like thinly sliced green mango or star fruit, a touch of galangal pulp, lemongrass, and salt. The pan-roasted meat is slightly pink, turning lighter when mixed with galangal.

Once the pork is thoroughly marinated, it is sprinkled with sesame seeds and finely sliced lime leaves, mixed well and ready to be served.

In addition to these ingredients, Kim Son's nem chao can be even better when enjoyed with a dipping sauce made from fermented soy paste. The sauce can be thick or thin, depending on diners’ taste.

Those who are not fond of or do not eat fermented soy paste might opt for sweet and sour fish sauce, which is equally appealing.

Thanh Nga, a diner from Hanoi who has sampled the renowned nem chao specialty in Kim Son, remarked that the dish was visually appealing with slightly pink hue of the pan-roasted meat complemented by the beautiful golden-brown of the skin.

"The nem chao, when eaten with aromatic herbs and various leaves, provides a refreshing balance, reducing greasiness and adding a cooling effect. Normally, I don't fancy pork hock, but this preparation was enticing, making it enjoyable for an entire week without feeling tired of it,” she said.

Thao Trinh