At just 24 years old, Co Thanh Huong is the fourth-generation owner of a family-run pho shop on Nguyen Khuyen Street in Hanoi.

Known for its flavorful broth and tender beef, the shop serves up to 500 bowls a day on weekends, often selling out before noon.

A family legacy spanning decades

The shop’s origins trace back to Huong’s great-grandmother, who hailed from Van Cu, Nam Dinh, a region synonymous with pho. Moving to Hanoi, her great-grandmother adjusted the traditional recipe to suit the tastes of the capital's diners.

Initially a nameless street stall on Sinh Tu Street (now Nguyen Khuyen Street), the shop became widely known as "Pho Sinh Tu."

By the 2000s, Huong’s mother, with her robust and no-nonsense demeanor, earned the nickname “Hau Bo Doi” (Hau the Soldier), and the shop became a bustling favorite.

“I grew up watching my mother work tirelessly, especially during the summer, sweating over steaming pots of broth. She poured her heart into every bowl of pho to support my siblings and me,” Huong shared.

In 2021, after leaving her office job, Huong returned home to help her mother with the family business. Initially assisting with minor tasks, she gradually took on greater responsibilities, from slicing meat to managing the kitchen. Over the past two years, Huong has fully taken over the shop, allowing her mother to retire.

The secret behind the flavors

Huong has stayed true to her family’s carefully adjusted pho recipe. Unlike traditional Nam Dinh pho, the broth is clear and light, free of star anise, cinnamon, and other strong spices.

“The sweetness of the broth comes from beef bones and fresh meat, with a touch of ginger for balance,” she explained.

The bones are meticulously prepared - soaked for six hours to remove impurities, washed multiple times, and blanched before being simmered for 24 hours. The result is a naturally sweet, rich broth with a delicate layer of aromatic fat.

Craftsmanship in every bowl

The shop offers various beef cuts, including rare (tái), well-done (chín), brisket (nạm), and crunchy flank (gầu giòn). Huong’s dedication to quality is evident in the preparation process.

“When I started, my mother insisted I master slicing meat by hand. I practiced for over a month, often cutting myself. Even now, I have scars from the heavy knife we use,” Huong recalled.

The shop now uses a machine to slice meat, reducing labor intensity. However, Huong continues to personally check the quality of every cut of beef upon delivery to ensure freshness.

The pho is served with thick, chewy noodles that hold their texture even when soaked in broth. While the shop also offers thinner noodles, Huong prefers the thicker variety for its compatibility with their robust broth.

A modernized space for a traditional dish

As the shop’s popularity grew, the original 40-square-meter space on Nguyen Khuyen Street became too cramped. Recently, Huong moved to a larger, more modern location nearby, complete with a well-ventilated kitchen to improve the dining experience.

The shop operates daily from 6:10 a.m. to 12 or 1 p.m., and again from 6:10 to 9 p.m. Despite the changes, Huong remains committed to preserving her family’s culinary heritage.

“I once thought this line of work was too hard, especially for a woman. But the more I learned from my mother, the more I fell in love with pho-making. It’s a legacy I feel proud to carry forward,” she said.

A loyal following

Longtime customers, like Mr. Ke from Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem District, frequent the shop for its clean, sweet broth and fresh, flavorful beef.

“The broth is rich but not overwhelming, and the beef is always tender and fresh. This place keeps me coming back,” he shared.

With prices ranging from 45,000 to 70,000 VND per bowl, the shop offers generous portions that reflect its commitment to quality. Popular dishes like pho tái nạm (rare beef with brisket) and pho gầu giòn (crunchy flank) tend to sell out by 9 a.m.

While peak hours can result in slight delays, most customers agree that the wait is well worth it.

Linh Trang