A rustic specialty from Kim Son, Ninh Binh, not only intrigues with its unusual name but also impresses with its meticulous preparation and unique flavors. Known as "nem chao" (fermented pork rolls), this dish offers a delicious way to cleanse the palate.

In addition to other famous dishes such as eel-like fish salad (gỏi nhệch), goat meat, and mountain snails, Kim Son boasts a rustic yet famous specialty: nem chao.

The art of crafting Kim Son's nem chao

Nem chao is made from pork trotters combined with common ingredients like galangal, lemongrass, green mango, sesame seeds, and aromatic leaves, such as black locust leaves, fig leaves, and Indian mulberry leaves.

Nguyen Quynh, the owner of a Kim Son restaurant specializing in Ninh Binh specialties, explained that the secret to delicious nem chao starts with selecting medium-sized, fresh pork trotters with tender skin and meat.

Overly large trotters are avoided as their thick skin and tough meat do not produce the desired texture. For added crunch, locals often choose front trotters, which are more sinewy.

After purchasing, the trotters are cleaned, left intact with the bone, and roasted over sticky rice straw. This straw imparts a distinct fragrance to the meat.

“Using a gas torch or wrapping the meat in newspaper like for some other dishes diminishes the flavor. Sticky rice straw roasting yields the best results. However, alternatives like sugarcane pulp or charcoal may be used when straw is unavailable,” Quynh noted.

The roasting process requires careful monitoring to achieve evenly golden, crispy skin without burning the meat. Once roasted, the trotters are scraped clean to reveal their golden-brown hue before the bone is removed, and the meat is deboned.

Enhancing flavors with handpicked ingredients

To complement the pork trotters, galangal is carefully selected, favoring medium-mature roots freshly unearthed for their fragrance and juiciness. The galangal is pounded and strained for its juice, which is used to marinate the meat, while the pulp is reserved to mix with the nem chao for an aromatic touch.

In Kim Son, a special herb called "man tuoi" (Artemisia vulgaris) is used for seasoning. Its unique fragrance enhances the dish's appeal.

Depending on local preferences, the pork can be steamed or pan-seared. Pan-searing is more popular as it preserves the meat's natural sweetness and prevents it from absorbing too much moisture.

The searing process involves layering the pan with herbs such as "man tuoi" leaves, lemongrass, lemon leaves, or guava leaves before adding the pork. The meat is cooked until golden brown and aromatic, then left to cool before being thinly sliced.

The thinly sliced pork is mixed with green mango or green starfruit for a tangy balance, along with galangal pulp, lemongrass, and a pinch of salt. This step slightly cooks the pork due to the acidity, ensuring the flavors meld perfectly.

Finally, sesame seeds and shredded lemon leaves are sprinkled over the mixture, which is gently tossed to create a dish ready for immediate enjoyment.

A dish completed with the perfect dipping sauce

Nem chao is best savored with "tuong ban," a fermented soybean sauce native to northern Vietnam. The sauce can be prepared thick or diluted to taste. For those who prefer alternatives, a tangy, sweet fish sauce also pairs well with the dish.

According to Thanh Nga, a Hanoi resident who once sampled nem chao during a visit to Kim Son, the dish stands out for its vibrant appearance and refreshing taste.

“The pan-seared pork, with its pinkish hue and golden-brown skin, looks inviting. Nem chao’s blend of fresh herbs and leaves brings a cooling sensation, making it a perfect remedy for fatigue. Though I’m not usually a fan of pork trotters, this preparation is captivating - I could enjoy it for an entire week without tiring of it.

The tender meat and crispy skin, combined with the rich soybean sauce, tart green mango, and slightly astringent fig leaves, make every bite irresistibly satisfying,” Nga shared.